I have started a list of many of the things that I think users should know — this is information that’s obvious once you know it, but since the camera does not come with a manual, you can spend hours figuring it out. Or possibly never figure it out at all. It’s a little bit like mining for gold. So I thought that I would start collating these, to centralize the information. I’ll add to these as I learn new things:
Important info that should be easily accessible but isn’t –
1) The location of Redcine tutorials are pretty well buried on Red’s support page, here’s the quick link – (http://www.red.com/support/release_history/6)
2) In your Quicktime Player preferences, you must check “Use high quality video settings when available” or else your video playback using the proxies will be soft and will freak you out
3) Shooting the maximum overcrank options will drop frames – for instance, shooting 2K at 113 fps (the max you can shoot using CF cards) resulted in the inconsistent dropping of frames and some glitchiness – switch to, say, 107 fps, and this will cease
4) It is very difficult to get information on the delivery status of the 50-150mm lens, even though the RED store quotes it as available and shipping
5) 4K 16:9 proxy playback is not enabled…this should change in Build 16, also 16:9 is generally glitchy and crashes RedCine – so you’re really better off shooting in 2:1 and cropping because the files handle more smoothly
6) Audio needs to be extracted either from FCP or compressor directly from the proxies – there’s no way to pull audio from R3D files (the RAW files) in RedCine or RedAlert
7) The most up-to-date shipping and delivery info is available at Big Jon’s FAQ – see http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7464
This is a little bit of a mysterious placement for this info, but ok…it seems like something which should be prominently displayed at the red.com site, but it isn’t….
8 – RED’s replacement camera policy – they can and will turn camera repairs around in 24 hours, but if you are on a critical shoot, you should have a back-up available. In the early days, when they had 50 cameras in the field, the impression was given that replacement cameras were easily obtained, but with the numbers approaching 2,000 delivered cameras, RED has a different replacement camera policy which is not openly advertised – so you should know about it in advance and plan accordingly.
9) There’s been changes in the PL mounts – PL mounts are mounted with Torx Plus screws (switched over from Allan screws, which are more easily stripped) which require an IP10 or TP10 screwdriver. Screws for the PL mount are Torx Plus M3 x 18mm. You will need this information if you are swapping PL mounts for other mounts. Instructional video for swapping PL to Nikon mount is on youtube
10) Hanns-G makes a 17” 720p monitor which allows you to see the same data that is available on the RED LCD, in addition to the image itself – there are only a couple of monitors which support this feature — as a corollary, your cheapest solid LCD monitor stand to accompany the Hanns-G is manufactured by Delvcam, the only decent one that I found for under $100.
11) 48v phantom power is not yet enabled in-camera – it creates a hiss or squeal in the audio, this should be fixed in future builds, but for now you need an external 48v power source to power your mics.
12) To eject compact flash cards without having to run through the menu system, hold down undo button and exit button at the same time – this will save you crucial time between swapping cards
14) Periodically pushing the power-up button without the battery connected will help to release residual voltage which can interfere with the function of the camera
14) Don’t mix formats on cards
15) Don’t ever separate R3D and proxies from their original file folders – if you need to muck around with them, make copies and save the originals
16) All kinds of challenges have occurred by not seating batteries properly and carefully, both on the charger and on the camera’s battery-holding accessories – you have to push the battery down on the connectors first and listen for the click, and then give it a slight tug away from the connecting device and it will click again. Two clicks are better than one! Watch the lights on the battery charger to make sure that the are blinking properly – don’t think that just because you got the right clicks that the deal is done, you still may need to re-apply them to the charger if the indicator lights are not flashing properly.
17) The battery charger has a little pull-out foot on the bottom that allows it to stand upright on its own – I saw a well-known and respected camera owner being shown this pull-out foot at NAB, and it was the first he had heard of it – so if you think you’re the only one who is not “in the know” on all of these little tips n tricks — you’re not! Little light bulbs are popping on all over the place….
Hope this helps a few folks out…I’ll add to it as I go.